The metro stop where I got out was a few blocks away, I got lost a little bit, but I was in no rush so it was rather pleasant trying to figure out how to get to the cemetery. It was busy in Montparnasse, as usual. People were leaving the local churches, there were families and couples sitting at cafés getting some sort of Sunday brunch, an art sale in the street...but as soon as I entered the gate and slipped inside the walls of the cemetery, it was quiet. I got a map from an information desk/guard post and looked at the locations of the tombs that I had come here to see. I was ready with my camera, a pen to jot down any interesting thoughts, and my map. I had a little bounce in my step, and I quickly came upon the grave of Marguerite Duras, a wonderful French writer whom my major advisor adores. I looked at it for a while, read one of the notes someone had left for her and took a picture. Onto the next grave...and it was Camille Saint-Saens! (This one was for you, John) He was buried with his family, and there was a tiny altar inside a tomb for them. Again, click, and I took a picture.
But it was at this point on this lovely sunny Sunday that my trip took an unexpected turn. I decided to walk along one of the sand paths between the tombs to feel more as though I were within the cemetery rather than walking on a road. As I walked towards Charles Baudelaire's grave, I heard someone sniffling, crying. A woman who seemed to be in her 50s was removing the dried, wilted flowers on someone's grave and replacing them with fresh new ones, watering ones that had been planted by the grave. She was crying softly and looked up at me briefly to see who was passing by. I lowered my gaze and continued walking, and I suddenly felt that I should tuck my map back into my bag. And then, I really began looking around.
To my left, Mounia Bohoura 1968-2008. Her grave was new. Either her family couldn't afford a stone grave cover or had not yet time for there was a hard plastic cover presented by the funerary home over the earth where she had been buried. Brightly colored flowers and bouquets covered its surface. No words, just her name and the years of her life. And then to my right, Tai Shi Cheung, 1955-1980, only 25 years old, who was buried along with her parents beneath a regal black tombstone with gold-painted Chinese characters engraved into it. And yet another grave on the right, the stone so old and weathered that the name and years had been replaced by dark green moss. I had no desire to check if I was on the right track to Baudelaire's grave, to see where I was in the cemetery. I heard children screaming somewhere in the distance and wondered angrily why no parents had silenced them yet. I emerged once more on the road and something caught my eye.
A grave to my left held a portrait of a young woman engraved into dark stone. 1960-1982. 22 years old. It was not the fact that I saw her face because all of these people had faces, identities. But to the right of the engraving was a small pot of flowers. Cheap, tiny, random flowers housed in a thin plastic pot. But on the outside of the pot there was a small piece of paper taped to it, with the following words:
Yesterday, we went on a day trip to the town of Chartres, which lies about an hour and a half outside of Paris. It is most famous for its majestic cathedral, La Cathédrale de Notre Dame à Chartres, which we could see from far away as we approached the town. To the left is a view of the Chartres Cathedral from the bus. It was breathtaking even from a distance..jpg)
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It was during those 10 minutes in which we sat immobilized, entranced by the beauty of the Eiffel Tower that we each decided silently to ourselves that, "Paris, je t'aime". Looking around, we could see groups of young academics like ourselves sharing bread and cheese on the grass, romantic couples of all ages holding each other, their mystified faces lit up by the glow of the tower, small children with their parents silent for just a few minutes while they stared up at the evening sky, and we couldn't help but push aside any frustration, boredom, or homesickness that any of us held within our hearts. For just 10 minutes, we forgot that our feet hurt from having to walk a mile every time we need to go get groceries. We forgot that struggling to communicate in a foreign language each day sometimes made us want to scream and hop on a plane back to the United States. We realized that though we were far away from our parents, siblings, boyfriends, girlfriends, and jus
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pture called the Barberini Fawn..jpg)
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Saint-Denis is a suburb that lies just north of the city of Paris and is easily accessible by train, metro, or bus. In my opinion, it is much more similar to New York City or Boston or major cities in the United States than Paris simply because it is much more diverse (socioeconomically, culturally, etc.) and more down-to-earth than the almost-too-beautiful, bourgeois, tourist-filled streets of the French capital. We took the metro there from the center of Paris and were pleasantly surprised by a lively, clamoring street market is present every day in Saint-Denis. Full of shouting vendors, Parisians looking for cheap produce, stands of 5-euro watches and 20-euro fake leather jackets, Muslim women wearing hijabs, men with full beards wearing loose lightweight matching shirts and pants in brightly-colored patterned fabrics...it was so refreshing!
The outside of the basilica is unfortunately very dirty, as you can see from the first picture. The state doesn't have enough money to fund restoration of all of the historical buildings and places in France, and unfortunately, Saint Denis doesn't make enough of its own revenue through tours, souvenir shop sales, etc., to keep the building maintained. Therefore, you see that the outer walls are filthy, and the windows very dirty, as well. However, the inside is absolutely stunning. The colorful stained glass windows, the varying styles of architecture behind the transept of the basilica (showing how changes over time affected the style of the additions to the basilica)...it was all very beautiful. Here are some pictures to give you an idea:









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